Most of us naturally gravitate toward single-breasted jackets & coats – but like them or not, double-breasted styles will be available throughout the stores this winter. The good news? It’s now easier to find great options for those who suit this more structured silhouette.
With roots in military tailoring and traditional men’s suiting, the modern double-breasted jacket still carries an air of authority and polish. Throwing one on instantly elevates an outfit, adding formality, presence, and confidence.
The double-breasted jacket & coat, however, does come with style and fit issues for some women.
1. Large-busted women
2. Petite women
3. Curvy women
4. Women with no waist
But if you really love this style there are ways to make it work if you.
1. Lighter fabrics will help to avoid overwhelming a petite frame or large busted woman.
2. A semi to a very fitted jacket/coat will elongate and flatter the woman with a defined waist rather than a straight boxy style.
3. If you’re wider through the waist a soft skimming tailored jacket/coat will sit better.
4. A jacket/coat with high placed armholes will elongate the torso.
5. The straighter the design of your double-breasted jacket/coat the better it will look and sit worn open. This also achieves a good elongating vertical line rather than an overwhelming horizontal effect.
6. If the jacket/coat has a belt or tie doing it up at the back will give it a nipped in style shape and minimize any unnecessary volumes of fabric.
7. If you’re large busted make sure the lapels are not too large and bulky.
Fit is key. Look for lapels that lie flat, buttons that fasten without pulling, smooth fabric across the back and shoulders, and sleeve hems that hit at or just above the base of your thumb.
Interestingly, double-breasted jackets/coats can actually be flattering when designed well. More buttons create a vertical line, drawing the eye up and down for a lengthening effect. Buttons placed close together give a slimming appearance, while wide-set or high-contrast buttons can widen the torso, creating a boxier shape.
For larger busts, avoid styles where the buttons form an inverted triangle, as this emphasizes the bust. However, this same design can bring balance for women who are smaller on top (shoulders & bust) than on the bottom such as the ‘A’ & ‘I’ shapes.
Keep in mind buttons especially in contrasting colours draw attention. Make sure you’re comfortable with that area becoming a focal point.
See current double-breasted coats & jackets options here at the link.
